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As 2018 comes to an end, it feels good to look back on all of the beautiful things I have experienced this year. 2018 has been difficult, but transformative. Big changes lie ahead!
After a phenomenal adventure full of hiking and camping through Wadi Rum and Petra, we were ready for a little R&R. The final stop on our Jordanian journey – the Dead Sea- was perfect for just that.
After a scenic drive along the King’s Way and through Wadi Araba, we were greeted with a hazy coast full of jade green water. It was at least 10 degrees warmer in Northern Jordan than it had been in the desert, so we were happy to have a little sunshine in our lives.
We had gotten pretty gross after all of the hiking and desert wandering and the campsites had offered pretty limited shower facilities, so we were ready for a slightly more pampering experience. We got a pretty sweet deal at a spa resort (~$60/night – including buffet breakfast and a private beach), which seemed like the perfect way to end our holiday.
Being able to float in the super salty water was an insanely cool sensation. It was very difficult for me to abide by the one-hour-at-a-time rule because it was so relaxing.
The next few days were spent swimming, floating, sunbathing, and enjoying some drinks in the sunshine. It was the perfect end to a fantastic vacation.
Some local brew
An incredible sunset
Petra: the crowning jewel of Jordan. I mean, how is this place even real? To think that it was once a city of thousands, intricately carved right into the mountains…wow. It was humbling.
We decided to go straight to Petra after our camel ride in Wadi Rum, which made for an exhausting but incredible day. Thankfully, we chose to purchase Jordan passes for our trip, which included two days at Petra (you need at least two days to see all the highlights and could easily spend three). The Jordan Passes also include the visa fees to visit Jordan, as well as entry to several other sites like Wadi Rum and Jerash – great value for the money.
A rare view of a mostly unobstructed Treasury!
Most people only know Petra because of the Treasury, which is undeniably beautiful; however, Petra is SO much more than that! I couldn’t believe how massive and extensive this ancient city really is, not to mention how well-preserved most of the structures are.
There are a wide variety of routes you can take through Petra, ranging from flat, easy walks to more intense hikes. If you visit, expect to be bombarded by people asking if you want to ride a horse, donkey, or camel. Most of these people are not licensed professionals and in my opinion, most of the animals there did not look well taken care of. Personally, I did not feel comfortable riding any of them and chose to go on foot. I also enjoyed the intensity of the longer hikes and wanted to be able to stop and take in the views as I pleased.
The hike to the Monastery was one of the highlights for me. Along the way, there are tons of great views, it’s not nearly as crowded as the Treasury, and there is a great little cafe right next to it.
Our other favorite hike was to the High Place of Sacrifice. The views from the top were stunning.
It’s amazing to imagine what Petra would have been like back in its heyday, when people still lived in caves nestled along the mountains’ walls. This New Wonder of the World is an ancient marvel not to be missed.
We woke up bright and early for our journey into Wadi Rum desert. We quickly shoved the last of our delicious breakfast down our throats in Aqaba before our driver came to take us to the entrance. The seaside highway quickly gave way to sandy mountains, and before long, the vast stretches of red desert were all we could see. It was the stuff of dreams.
It was a cold and cloudy day and our Bedouin travel guide reminded us to keep our coats within reach throughout the tour. In the end, I was grateful for the chilly weather as it made the countless hiking stops much more enjoyable; I could not imagine doing it in the heat.
The first few hours of the tour were spent hiking under the mystical fog, which somehow made the desert look even more amazing. To be honest, I had not expected the tour to include so many great hikes (I imagined it more like a safari); it greatly exceeded my expectations.
Around noon, we pulled over to have some lunch and warm up. Along the way, we grabbed some dry pieces of bush for the fire, which was difficult since it had just rained. We enjoyed a delicious stew of tomato, pepper, onion, peas, and beans, followed by some freshly brewed tea. It was easily one of my best meal experiences to date.
The sky started to clear a bit after lunch, and while I loved the way the clouds looked hanging over the desert, the sun on my face was a welcome sensation.
The final hike on top of the arch bridge was an incredible way to end our desert tour.
Above and below!
We headed towards our camp just in time to watch the sunset.
As if we hadn’t already had an incredible day, our hiking adventure in the desert was followed by a fun and relaxing evening at a Bedouin camp, where we met some wonderful fellow travelers, ate a delicious meal, played several rounds of various card games, and learned more about Jordan and Bedouin life.
It was a cold night in Wadi Rum, but we managed to sleep well under several thick blankets. After a quick breakfast, we were ready for our final Wadi Rum adventure: a camel ride across the desert.
My husband may or may not want a puppy.
We traveled with Wadi Rum Nomads and loved every second of it. Camping in Wadi Rum was a crazy, magical adventure of a lifetime that we will never forget.
After a few very interesting and eye-opening days in Israel, we were ready to cross into neighboring Jordan. Prior to our trip, we wondered if this was even possible, but after some research, we realized that it was a relatively simple process. We flew down to Eilat -an Israeli resort town on the Red Sea- to spend the night before our border crossing into Aqaba.
Eilat reminded me a lot of Antalya or Fethiye – a bustling tourist town full of restaurants, cafes, and shops. Honestly, it was a little crowded for my taste, but since we were only there for one night, we did our best to take it easy and enjoy it. The mood was simultaneously upbeat and laid back and we were pleased by the variety of food options (Japanese, Mexican, American, you name it) in such a small space.
The next morning, we took a taxi to the border crossing, which involved a lot of stamping and signing, but only took about 20 minutes in total (we were the only ones there when we arrived). I was amazed by how completely different Aqaba was than Eilat, even though they are right next to each other. We hopped in a cab which drove us along the coast to our hotel near the beach. Along the way, wild camels grazed on the side of the road and desert mountains rose above the horizon. I already felt like I’d experienced so much adventure in Israel, but I realized in that moment that my adventure was just beginning.
We got to our hotel, dropped off our stuff, and immediately hit the beach for a stroll.
Much unlike Eilat, the beach was relatively peaceful and uncrowded, save for a few families barbecuing. It’s important to note that people dress much more conservatively in Jordan than in Israel as well, so plan accordingly. I definitely saw foreign tourists in bikinis, but I felt it was more respectful to cover up.
After our first night, I was ready to spend some time in the water. The Red Sea is known for its beautiful coral reefs, and after snorkeling in the Maldives last year, I was really excited to do it again. Our hotel let me rent a wetsuit, mask, and flippers for just 5JD per day (~$7) and even graciously drove us down to some of the best dive sites.
I don’t have an underwater camera (although I’m starting to wish I did), but the image below can give you an example of some of the aquatic life I was able to see in Aqaba – and right off of the free, public beach! Winter is not the most popular time to travel in Jordan and especially not in Aqaba. The weather is good (roughly in the 70s), but a bit cold for swimming. Still, it was warm enough for me and I happily spent several hours snorkeling both days we were there. As a bonus, I had the water to myself, thanks to the lack of crowds, and the cloudy skies prevented me from getting sunburnt!
Yes, it was really this magical.
Aqaba was a lovely and relaxing introduction to our Jordanian adventure!
Going Groundless 
